What makes one going down the feared steep descent of the Fish River Canyon hiking trail in the vast chasm Namibia a total of 31 times?

For Eric McLaren from Somerset West, a certified adventure guide specialising in the Fish River Canyon, it all started 12 years ago in 2014 when he was invited along by his late friend Colin to join their group.

“The Fish River is widely regarded as one of the continent’s premier hiking challenges,” he said. “Spanning about 72 km over five days, it demands physical preparation, logistical planning and careful risk management. It was my first multi-day hike. I knew from the outset it would be a serious undertaking, but also an adventure too significant to turn down.”

One hike led to another, then another, and before he knew it he had completed it 31 times, most of it as a guide taking down groups.

“It’s difficult to put into words,” he said. “The canyon has a way of drawing you back; each descent feels familiar, yet never the same. Once it gets under one’s skin, that’s it! You don’t really decide to go back, but simply find yourself returning.”

Never just one moment

When the legend in Fish River Canyon circles talks about the experience of the hike,, one feels the urge to put on your hiking boots and join the adventure.

Asked about highlights over the past 12 years, McLaren said it was never just one moment.

“The whole adventure is the highlight. It is the combination of people and place. The groups I guide are always special, but so are the hikers one meets along the way. There’s something about the canyon that strips things back; everyone is there for the same reason: to walk, test themselves and experience something real.

“You become aware of what you truly need, physically and mentally. That awareness stays with you long after you climb out.”

The terrain itself is constantly changing, McLaren added, from rocky descents and river crossings to wide open stretches and narrow sections. “No two hikes ever feel the same. The light, heat, pace of the group all shift.

“But if I had to narrow it down, it’s the calibre of people the canyon attracts. Genuine, grounded individuals who are willing to step out of their comfort zone and embrace the challenge. That shared purpose creates something quite special.”

Hardest part

What is the hardest part? For most hikers it’s the initial descent and the first day and a half in the canyon, he related.

“That section includes the narrow stretch known as the Boulder Field. Here progress is slow and deliberate. You’re constantly climbing over, around and between large boulders, which demands balance, focus and steady foot placement, especially with a full pack.

“The heat adds another layer of difficulty. Many of the boulders are dark and on hot days they absorb and radiate heat, significantly increasing the temperature at ground level. Combined with the physical effort of the terrain, this can make the first stretch demanding. Once hikers move beyond this section, the canyon opens up, the walking becomes more rhythmic and most people find they settle into their stride.”

Prep makes or breaks

Preparation is key, McLaren noted. “A few hikers underestimated what the canyon demands, which made it tough for them, and frustrating for those who had prepared properly.”

That experience sharpened his approach, and now he is more clear about the required fitness levels and realistic pack weights before anyone commits. “Fortunately, I’ve never had a major incident,” he pointed out.

Over the years, he has met people with countless questions about the booking process, what to pack, where to camp and what to expect, but there was no real guide with all the answers.

This led to him write his recently released guide book Thirty Times Down: A Hiker’s Guide to the Fish River Canyon Trail – a 128-page practical and narrative book and companion to one of Africa’s most demanding multi-day hikes.

“My hope is that this book will do exactly that. Since that first adventure in 2014, I’ve now hiked the canyon 31 times. I know that one day, I’ll have to hang up my boots and stop guiding groups, and that’s really what inspired this book. It’s my way of giving something back to everyone who’ll still hike it in future.

“I’ve put together a distance matrix chart for the trail that I have found useful. It covers 27 key points of interest, including campsites, landmarks and shaded trees, small but important spots you really appreciate during the day.”

McLaren’s book focuses on what hikers need to know before stepping onto the canyon floor – from pack weight and pacing to food strategy, terrain realities and day-by-day planning. “The book draws on my experience leading 30 expeditions through the Fish River Canyon and offers a practical, experience-based perspective on one of Africa’s most demanding multi-day hikes.

“Blending detailed route planning with field-tested insight, it’s positioned as a working companion for serious hikers rather than a traditional travel memoir.”

The target readership includes backpackers, hikers and outdoor enthusiasts with a solid base fitness level who are considering the Fish River Canyon trail, as well as past hikers who may recognise their own experiences in its pages, McLaren said.

Detailed hike planner

At the centre of the book is a detailed hike planner that breaks down each stage of the route, offering practical timing guidance and insight into terrain changes.

Rather than presenting the canyon as a dramatic backdrop alone, McLaren examines the small decisions that shape a successful trek: how much water to carry between points; how to manage blisters before they escalate; and how group dynamics shift over five days of sustained effort.

The book can be ordered from McLaren directly or is available at CityRock in Cape Town, Johannesburg and Pretoria, and online at www.argaiters.co.za or www.sat4rent.co.za.

 Contact McLaren on 083 627 1563 or info@capetownhikes.co.za.