Japanese ‘Tuna King’ pays record R53 million for bluefin at Tokyo auction

Participants look at tuna as wholesale sellers and buyers attend the first tuna auction of the New Year at Toyosu fish market in Tokyo on Monday 5 January. Photo: JIJI PRESS / AFP
Participants look at tuna as wholesale sellers and buyers attend the first tuna auction of the New Year in Tokyo on Monday 5 January. Photo: JIJI PRESS / AFP

TOKYO – A Japanese sushi entrepreneur has paid a record 510.3 million yen (about R53.6 million) for a giant bluefin tuna at Monday’s prestigious New Year auction in Tokyo’s main fish market, smashing the previous all-time high.

Self-styled “Tuna King” Kiyoshi Kimura’s sushi restaurant chain paid the top price for the 243-kilogramme fish that was caught off Japan’s northern coast.

Record-breaking bid

The 510.3 million yen price at the New Year’s auction was the highest since comparable data started being collected in 1999. The previous high was 333.6 million yen (about R35 million) for a 278-kilogramme bluefin in 2019, after the fish market moved from its traditional Tsukiji area in central Tokyo to a more modern facility.

Kiyoshi Kimura, president of Kiyomura Corp, displays the 243-kilogramme bluefin tuna.
Kiyoshi Kimura, president of Kiyomura Corp, displays the 243-kilogramme bluefin tuna at his Tokyo restaurant on Monday 5 January after paying a record price for the fish at the New Year’s auction at Tokyo’s main fish market. Photo: Yuichi Yamazaki / AFP

Last year’s top bidder paid 207 million yen (about R21.8 million) for a 276-kilogramme bluefin.

“I’d thought we would be able to buy a little cheaper, but the price soared before you knew it,” Kimura said after the pre-dawn auction. “I was surprised at the price… I hope that by eating auspicious tuna, as many people as possible will feel energised.”

Conservation progress

Dave Gershman at the Pew Charitable Trusts’ international fisheries team used news of the auction to highlight that stocks of Pacific bluefin tuna were improving after being “near collapse”.

Gershman said in an emailed statement that a 2017 recovery plan “is working, and if decision makers take further action in 2026, the future for Pacific bluefin will be bright”.

Customer delight

Shortly after this year’s auction, the tuna was butchered and turned into sushi, selling for around 500 yen (R52) per roll.

“I feel like I’ve begun the year in a good way after eating something so auspicious as the year starts,” 19-year-old Minami Sugiyama said from a table in one of Kimura’s restaurants in Tsukiji.

Fellow customer Kiyoshi Nishimura, a 40-year-old Shinto priest, agreed: “Even without dipping it in soy sauce, there’s sweetness. And the richness, the texture… it just makes you feel happy.”

During the Covid-19 pandemic, New Year tunas commanded only a fraction of their usual top prices as restaurants scaled back operations.

Sustainable future

“This year, fisheries managers from Japan, the United States, Korea, and other countries from across the Pacific who target bluefin should agree on a long-term, sustainable management plan that would lock in a healthy population and ensure that the species never again faces the overfishing of the past,” Gershman added.

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