PARIS – French authorities moved to suspend Chinese fast-fashion giant Shein’s digital platform on Wednesday, just hours after the retailer opened its first-ever physical store worldwide in Paris under heavy police protection and amid fierce protests over child safety concerns.
Hundreds of eager shoppers queued for hours outside the luxury BHV department store, where Shein unveiled its permanent retail space on the sixth floor of the historic landmark that has stood opposite Paris City Hall since 1856. Riot police patrolled the streets and erected barriers to keep protesters at bay as customers streamed into the controversial new outlet.
The dramatic opening came as the French government announced it was suspending Shein’s online platform until the Singapore-based company demonstrates full compliance with French legislation, particularly following outrage over the sale of childlike sex dolls on its platform.
Despite widespread criticism from politicians, unions, and established fashion brands over Shein’s ultra-fast fashion model and environmental impact, customers ranging from young families to trendy twenty-somethings turned out in force.
“Times have changed, generations have changed,” said Mohamed Joullanar, a 30-year-old Moroccan graduate student who regularly shops Shein online. “I’d never thought of going to BHV before. I always heard it was expensive, luxury products. But now, thanks to Shein, I’m here.”
However, some shoppers expressed disappointment with in-store pricing. Hammani Souhaila, who purchased a €16.49 (about R330) T-shirt for her 17-year-old daughter, noted that Shein items at BHV were “more expensive than online.”
Children’s rights activists organised demonstrations outside the store, condemning what they see as corporate irresponsibility in the face of serious safety concerns.
“We protect Shein and the culture of crimes against children while survivors of childhood sexual violence with their signs are pushed aside,” said Caroline Di Ruzza from Mouv’Enfants, a child protection association.
Leftist political groups distributed flyers denouncing “suspected forced labour” and “pollution,” urging passers-by to sign petitions against Shein’s presence in the Paris store.
The controversy escalated just days before the store opening when childlike sex dolls were discovered on Shein’s platform, triggering a judicial investigation targeting both Shein and rival online retailer AliExpress.
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In a related development, prosecutors reported the arrest of a man in southern France who had ordered a childlike sex doll from China – though not from Shein. The individual, previously convicted of sexual assault, “admitted to having ordered the doll for sexual purposes,” according to prosecutor Jean-Luc Blachon.
Shein has pledged to “fully cooperate” with French authorities and announced a complete ban on all sex dolls. The company also suspended products from third-party sellers in France and expressed willingness to engage in dialogue with government officials.
Frederic Merlin, 34-year-old director of SGM company that operates BHV, briefly considered canceling the partnership but ultimately proceeded, hoping Shein will boost foot traffic to the department store.
The retailer plans to open five additional stores in French cities including Dijon, Grenoble, and Reims, despite the current regulatory challenges.
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