What makes one going down the feared steep descent of the Fish River Canyon hiking trail in the vast chasm Namibia for 31 times?
For 62-year-old Eric McLaren of Somerset West, a certified adventure guide specialising in the Fish River Canyon, it all started 12 years ago in 2014 when he was invited along by his late friend Colin to join their group.
“The Fish River is widely regarded as one of the continent’s premier hiking challenges. Spanning approximately 72km over five days, it demands physical preparation, logistical planning and careful risk management,” he says.”It was my first multi-day hike, and it just happened to be the Fish River Canyon. I knew from the outset that it would be a serious undertaking, but also an adventure too significant to turn down,” he says.
“One hike led to another, then another, and before I realised it, I had completed it 31 times — most of it as a guide taking down groups.
“It’s difficult to put into words. The canyon has a way of drawing you back — each descent feels familiar, yet never the same. I suppose once it gets under your skin, that’s it. You don’t really decide to go back, you simply find yourself returning,” he says.
“Since being a child, growing up near Devil’s Peak in Cape Town, we often ventured into the mountains and played around the Devil’s Peak quarry. Ever since then I’ve been an outdoor person,” he says.
Never just one moment
When McLaren, a legend in Fish River Canyon circles, starts to talk about the experience of hiking the Fish River Canyon, one feels the urge to put on your hiking boots and join in on the adventure.
Asked about highlights over the past 12 years, McLaren says it was never just one moment.
“The whole adventure is the highlight. It is the combination of people and place. The groups I guide are always special, but so are the hikers you meet along the way. There’s something about the canyon that strips things back, everyone is there for the same reason: to walk, to test themselves, and to experience something real.
“There’s something about five days in a canyon that strips life back to the essentials,” McLaren notes. “You become very aware of what you truly need, physically and mentally. That awareness stays with you long after you climb out.
“The terrain itself is constantly changing. From rocky descents and river crossings to wide open stretches and narrow sections. No two hikes ever feel the same. The light, the heat, the pace of the group, it all shifts,” he says.
But if I had to narrow it down, it’s the calibre of people the canyon attracts. Genuine, grounded individuals who are willing to step out of their comfort zone and embrace the challenge. That shared purpose creates something quite special.
Hardest part
What is the hardest part? For most hikers, it’s the initial descent and the first day and a half in the canyon. That section includes the narrow stretch known as the Boulder Field in the Fish River Canyon. Here, progress is slow and deliberate. You’re constantly climbing over, around, and between large boulders, which demands balance, focus, and steady foot placement, especially with a full pack.
The heat adds another layer of difficulty. Many of the boulders are dark in colour, and on hot, sunny days they absorb and radiate heat, significantly increasing the temperature at ground level. Combined with the physical effort of the terrain, this can make the first stretch particularly demanding.
Once hikers move beyond this section, the canyon begins to open up, the walking becomes more rhythmic, and most people find they settle into their stride …
Preparation makes or breaks
Over the years, I’ve learnt that preparation makes or breaks this hike. Early on, I didn’t emphasise fitness and pack weight strongly enough. A few hikers underestimated what the canyon demands, which made it tough for them, and understandably frustrating for those who had prepared properly. That experience sharpened my approach. Today, I’m very clear about required fitness levels and realistic pack weights before anyone commits. Fortunately, I’ve never had a major incident.
One situation that does stand out happened in 2023. Two sisters struggled on the descent and began showing signs of nausea. We still had several kilometres to cover that day, and it was clear pushing on would not be wise. I made the decision to call the ranger via satellite phone and arrange an extraction.
It’s never a decision I take lightly. But leadership in the canyon is about judgement, not pride. The priority is always the safety and long-term wellbeing of the hikers.
Endless questions
“Over time, I’ve met so many people with endless questions, about the booking process, what to pack, where to camp, and what to expect. Yet there’s no single guide that really answers all of those questions in one place,” he says.
This made him decide to write the guide book Thirty Times Down: A Hiker’s Guide to the Fish River Canyon Trail, which was recently released. The 128-page practical and narrative book is a companion to one of Africa’s most demanding multi-day hikes.
“My hope is that this book will do exactly that. Since that first adventure in 2014, I’ve now hiked the canyon 31 times. I know that one day, I’ll have to hang up my boots and stop guiding groups, and that’s really what inspired me to write this book. This is my way of giving something back to everyone who will still hike it in the years to come,” he says.
Distance matric chart
“I’ve put together a distance matrix chart for the trail that I have found incredibly useful out on the trail. It covers 27 key points of interest, including campsites, landmarks, and shaded trees — those small but important spots you really appreciate during the day,” he says.
McLaren’s book focuses on what hikers need to know before stepping onto the canyon floor — from pack weight and pacing to food strategy, terrain realities and day-by-day planning.
“The book draws on my experience leading 30 expeditions through Namibia’s Fish River Canyon and offers a practical, experience-based perspective on one of Africa’s most demanding multi-day hikes. Blending detailed route planning with field-tested insight, it is positioned as a working companion for serious hikers rather than a traditional travel memoir,” he explains.The target readership includes backpackers, hikers and outdoor enthusiasts with a solid base fitness level who are considering the Fish River Canyon trail, as well as past hikers who may recognise their own experiences in its pages, McLaren says.
Detailed hike planner
At the centre of the book is a detailed hike planner that breaks down each stage of the route, offering practical timing guidance and insight into terrain changes. Rather than presenting the canyon as a dramatic backdrop alone, McLaren examines the small decisions that shape a successful trek: how much water to carry between points, how to manage blisters before they escalate, how group dynamics shift over five days of sustained effort.
The book can be ordered from McLaren directly or is available at CityRock in Cape Town, Johannesburg and Pretoria, and online at www.argaiters.co.za or www.sat4rent.co.za.
. Contact Eric McLaren on info@capetownhikes.co.za or 083 627 1563.
