{"id":267978,"date":"2025-07-28T09:59:47","date_gmt":"2025-07-28T07:59:47","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/novanews.co.za\/peexpress\/anderkant-die-rio-acre-praat-hulle-spaans\/"},"modified":"2025-07-28T10:34:11","modified_gmt":"2025-07-28T08:34:11","slug":"anderkant-die-rio-acre-praat-hulle-spaans","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/novanews.co.za\/peexpress\/anderkant-die-rio-acre-praat-hulle-spaans\/","title":{"rendered":"Anderkant die Rio Acre praat hulle Spaans"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Pierre Massyn<\/strong>
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Die Peruviaanse grenswag was heeltemal uit die veld geslaan. Wat soek \u2018n Suid-Afrikaner hier in die middel van n\u00earens by sy afgele\u00eb buitepos in hierdie woeste deel van Suid-Amerika? Hy sou eerder \u2018n Gaucho hier verwag het \u2013 die nomadiese Suid-Amerikaanse berede jagter-veewagters met hul kenmerkende bolleros en vangtoue op hul geharde en vlugvoetige ponies – as \u2018n bleekgesig wat o\u00ebnskynlik van Europese herkoms is.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cBuenos d\u00edas se\u00f1or\u201d, groet hy my. Hierdie woorde moes eers insink. Sien, die afgelope vier maande het ek gewoond geraak aan die Portugese \u201cBom dia, Senhor\u201d. Ons het deur die rivier geloop, ek en die Fransman. Vasgeklem in \u2018n vergete oksel in \u2018n noord-westelike uithoek van Suid-Amerika vloei die Rio Acre deur \u2018n afgesonderde deel van die reusagtige woudvlakte bekend as die Mato Grasso. Ek was nou op \u2018n smeltmunt waar die grense van drie lande bymekaar kom: Brasili\u00eb, Peru en Bolivi\u00eb. Die Rio Acre is nie \u2018n groot rivier nie. Vergeleke met die Amesone, was hy maar \u2018n liggewig. Hy ontspring in die ho\u00ebr-liggende platorand in die noordweste van Peru en dreineer saam met \u2018n reeks ander oos-vloeiende riviere die noordelike voetheuwels van die Andesgebergte voor hy by die Purusrivier aansluit, wat op sy beurt naby Manaus deur die magtige Amesone ingesluk word. Dit was in die dro\u00ebtyd, wat ons in staat gestel het om die Rio Acre in die versengende hitte te voet oor te steek. Die rivier se water was moddergeel en het soms tot net onder ons rugsakke gestyg. My rugsak het my aardse besittings bevat en my roesbruin baard het byna op my bors gehang en my verbleikte haardos sou Robinson Croesoe eer aangedoen het.
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Ek het die Amesonerivier die rug toegekeer, waar ek en my Duitse kameraad Christoff maande lank in Parintins onder die beskerming van \u2018n Katolieke priester, Padre Manuel da Gama gebly het en hom op sy bootvaarte na die afgesonderde communidades in die oerwoud vergesel het. Ek en Christoff se paaie het op Rio Branco geskei. \u2018n Weermagpatrollie het ons bus kort vantevore gehalt. \u201cToda a bagagem fora!\u201d het die offisier geblaf. Alle passasiers word beveel om uit te klim. Ons word deursoek. Dis toe dat hulle Christoff se mes gevat afgevat het. Dit het hom geruk; ek het hom jammer gekry, want ons het \u2018n paar sakke sout saam opge\u00ebet. En dis toe dat ek hom my kommando-sakmes uit Suid-Afrika gegee het: \u2018n sakmes wat maande vantevore saam met my oor die Atlantiese Oseaan geseil het tot in Recife, Brasili\u00eb. Dieselfde soldaat wat Christoff se mes gevat het, het my ook gevisinteer – sonder om my twee messe te kry, waarvan een \u2018n duursame Switserse le\u00ebr-sakmes met \u2018n vergrootglas was \u2013 \u2018n afskeidsgeskenk van my vorige werkgewer. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Die soldaat was meer ge\u00efnteresseerd in die gringo se geld \u2013 veral die gesogte geldeenheid van di\u00e9 van die Verenigde State van Amerika. Hy snuffel my karige besittings deur, beveel my kortaf om my geldsak oop te maak. Dit was die soort geldsak wat jy soos \u2018n lyfband onder jou bo-klere dra. Sy o\u00eb het merkbaar groter geword toe hy die dollars sien. Hy het sy vingers deur die note laat gly, hulle strelend betas. Jy kon my beswaarlik destyds as \u201cryk\u201d beskryf, maar dit was meer geld as wat hy in sy lewe gesien het. Ek kon sy gedagtes lees: \u201cGringo, ek kan jou nou hier in die oerwoud insleep en jou net daar skiet, en daar sal geen haan daarna kraai nie. Ek sal jou vir die pirana\u2019s voer en hulle sal nooit jou liggaam kry nie.\u201d Maar hy het nie, al kon hy. Die wes-grens van Brasili\u00eb was mynw\u00eareld en dit was letterlik \u2018n oorlogsone. Die myngroepe het hulself in kartels verdeel en hulle geen teenstand of vreemde aansprake geduld nie. Die militia<\/em> het hulle geskaar by die mynbase wat hulle die beste betaal het. Dit was onverbloemde georganiseerde misdaad. Die woord korrupsie beskryf beswaarlik die omkopery wat die basis van hierdie verhouding tussen die owerhede en die myners bepaal het. Bendegevegte was aan die orde van die dag. Onderliggend aan dit alles was die koka\u00efen-bedryf. Die cocaplant groei natuurlik in Suid-Amerika en word veral deur die Indiaanse vroue bewerk. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Waar ek my in 1986 bevind het<\/strong> …<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dit was die w\u00eareld waarin ek my in Augustus 1986 bevind het. Ek was nie meer die flambojante woordvoerder van die w\u00eareld se grootste uraanmyn nie. Ek was werkloos, sonder heenkome of enige onmiddellike vooruitsig op \u2018n inkomste. Ek het boonop ook \u201cgeen vaste adres nie\u201d gehad nie aangesien ek geen idee gehad het waar ek op \u2018n bepaalde aand sou oornag nie. Behalwe vir \u2018n handvol woudbewoners wat ek in die Amesones agtergelaat het, Suster Marines op Itacoatiara (2) en \u2018n Fransman wat ek skaars twee dae vantevore terloops ontmoet het, het ek geen dooie siel op die massiewe Suid-Amerikaanse kontinent geken nie.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ek het die Serge in Rio Branco ontmoet. Soos ek, was hy op sy eie persoonlike pelgrimsreis. Hy was straatslim, \u2018n uitgeslape operateur uit die onderw\u00eareld van Parys, nie iemand met wie jy sou neuk nie. Hy was seningtaai en het my laat dink aan sy landgenoot Henri Charri\u00e9re van Papillon-faam. (3) Ek sou ook later agterkom dat hy \u2018n savant was van die gewilde wit snuifpoeier \u2013 koka\u0209ene. En nou het ons saam deur die Rio Acre gewaad, uit Brasili\u00eb, deur die rivier tot in Peru. Toe ons uit Brasili\u00eb die Rio Acre te voet oorgesteek het, het ek uit \u2018n land waar Portugees die amptelike taal is, die Spaanssprekende Peru betree\u2026
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dis \u2018n interessante verskynsel dat met die uitsondering van Brasili\u00eb, die hele Suid-Amerika Spaans as amptelike taal het. En daar is \u2018n goeie rede daarvoor: dis die Verdrag van Tordesillas. Ek het die eerste keer die subtiele verskille tussen die twee tale agtergekom in die grensgebied tussen Brasili\u00eb en Peru. Een van die eerste verskille wat ek geleer het, dat die Portugees vir \u201cwit\u201d \u201cbranco\u201d is, maar in Spaans sou dit \u201cblanco\u201d wees. Brood in Portugees is \u201cp\u0103u\u201d en in Spaans \u2018n meer hanteerbare \u201cpan\u201d. Vir my was Spaans makliker om te leer, want ek het werklik gesukkel met die Portugees, onder meer omdat my vriende in die Amasones \u2018n bykans-onuitspreekbare patois gebruik het. (Een oerword-woord wat ek wel onder die knie gekry het, was \u201crede\u201d, uitgespreek \u201chegie\u201d, oftewel hangmat \u2013 my \u201cbed\u201d die afgelope drie maande.)
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Maar hoe het dit alles gebeur? <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dit het gegaan oor handel en meer spesfiek speserye. Inka-goud sou later \u2018n bykomende faktor word in die wedywering tussen die vier Europese supermoondhede: Spanje (Kastilie\u00eb) , Portugal, Frankryk en Brittanje. In die die gloriedae van seil was die ontdekking van \u2018n seeweg na die Ooste \u2018n allesverterende ambisie. As jy \u2018n seeweg na die Ooste kon vind, het jy onmiddellik kommersie\u00ebl die hef in die hand gehad. Navigasiemiddele soos kaarte en data oor seeroetes is met die grootste geheimheiding hanteer want dit moes nie in die hande van jou mededingers val nie. Maar hoekom \u2018n seeroete? Hoofsaaklik omdat die roete oorland na die Ooste deurspek was met gevare soos aanvalle op karavane. Buitendien was dit \u2018n lang, uitmergelende reis en die oases met die lewegewende water was ver uitmekaar uit. Toe Konstantinopel in 1453 in Moslem-hande val, was dit \u2018n ramp vir die handelsambisies van die Westerse Christendom. Daar was geen ander uitweg nie: \u2018n seeweg na die Ooste moes gevind word! Die twee voorlopers in hierdie wedloop was Spanje en Portugal. Hulle was \u2018n handelsoorlog met mekaar gewikkel. In seevaartgeledere soos by die navigasieskool op Sagres in Portugal, het \u2018n idee begin posvat: seil wes om die ooste te bereik! En stelselmatig het die ontdekkingsreisigers in hul primitiewe skepies verder en verder langs die ooskus van Suid-Amerika afgekruip \u2013 op soek na \u2018n deurgang van die Atlantiese Oseaan na die Stille Oseaan.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Spanje en Portugal se handels-ambisies in die Nuwe W\u00eareld het gelei tot openlike vyandskap tussen die twee lande. Die slotsom was dat twee (aarts)Katolieke supermoondhede mekaar aan die strot beetgehad het oor \u2018n seeroete na die Ooste. Inmiddels was produkte soos rubber, hout en goud in Suid-Amerika \u2013 die kontinent in die pad van die weswaartse seeweg na die Ooste – handige meevallertjies vir die land wat uiteindelik koning sou kraai in die Nuwe W\u00eareld. Daar net een uitweg: die hoof van die Katolieke Kerk moes self ingryp.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Op 7 Junie 1494 fel die Pous Aleksander die Sesde sy oordeel in die Verdrag van Tordesillas, geteken deur die imperialistiese partye in die Spaanse stad met dieselfde naam. Die Atlantiese Oseaan en Suid-Amerika word verdeel! (4)
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pedro \u00c1lvares de Gouveia, beter bekend as Pedro \u00c1lvares Cabral, ontdek die land wat ons vandag as Brasili\u00eb ken slegs vier jaar later en eis dit terstond vir die Portugese kroon toe omdat dit ingevolge die Verdrag se bepalinge binne Portugese gebied val. (Cabral se geboortestad was Santar\u00e9m, waarvan die dorp met dieselfde naam net stroomaf van Partintins is, waar ek myself gevestig het vir my persoonlike ekspedisies.) Brasili\u00eb, verreweg die grootste land op die Suid-Amerikaanse vasteland, word Portugees. Alle ander gebiede wat later onafhanklike lande sou word, was Spaans.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In 1520 ontdek Ferdinand Magelaan die seestraat wat die ontwykende verbindingsroete vorm tussen die Atlantiese \u2013 en Stille Oseane vorm. Die straat aan die onderpunt van Suid-Amerika dra vandag sy naam. Dis dalk heel gepas dat Magelaan \u2018n dubbele identiteit gehad het nie: hy was \u2018n Portugees in diens van die Spaanse kroon! En Portugees en Spaans is die amptelike tale in Suid-Amerika!
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ek en Serge het Cuzco bereik en saam die Inka-voetslaanpad aangedurf. Na \u2018n verblyf van sowat drie maande in Cuzco – die antieke kulturele hoofstad van die Inkas (5) en \u2018n ekspedisie na die Cerro Ambor\u00f3 oerwoud in Bolivi\u00eb – het ek die Stille Oseaan by Lima bereik. Ek het Suid-Amerika van Bel\u00e9m by die mond van die Amesonerivier aan die Atlantiese Oseaan tot by die Stille Oseaan oorkruis. My transkontinentale odyssee was volbring toe ek my rou voete in die blou waters van die w\u00eareld se grootste oseaan indompel. In 2023 seil ek van die einste straat van Magelaan na Los Hornos (\u201cKaap Hoorn\u201d) wat ek presies op my 70ste verjaardag bereik. Suid-Amerika met al sy mistiek en robuuste, dog majestieuse skoonheid sal altyd onlosmaaklik deel van my lewe bly.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In Augustus 1986 was daar reeds \u2018n oseaan tussen my en my vorige lewe. \u2018n Obskure rivier met die naam Rio Acre in \u2018n onbekende uithoek van Suid-Amerika was die finale waterskeiding\u2026
* Pierre Massyn is \u2018n oud-TV joernalis, avonturier en skrywer.<\/em><\/strong>
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

VOETNOTE
1. Hierdie rugsak is later op \u2018n trein by Puno naby die Titicaca-meer gesteel. Dit het die skrywer letterlik met net die klere aan sy lyf gelaat.<\/em>
2. \u2018n Eiland in die Amesonerivier. Suster Marines was \u2018n Rooms-Katolieke non in \u2018n klooster wat haar oor my ontferm het.<\/em>
3. Die legendariese Henri Charri\u00e9re wat na die berugte Franse strafkolonie Guyana gestuur is roem en verwerf het met \u2018n aantal gewaagde ontsnappings. Vergelyk ook La Guillotine Sec deur Ren\u00e9 Belbeno\u00eet.<\/em>
4. Die kompleksiteit van die Verdrag maak dit onmoontlik om die bepalinge in detail binne die beperkinge van hierdie artikel, en die ruimte daarvoor, uiteen te sit. Dit word vir latere publikasie oorweeg.
5. Om liggaam en siel bymekaar te hou, het die skrywer Engels gegee \u2013 onder meer vir die kelners van die gewilde Paititi-restourant.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Pierre Massyn Die Peruviaanse grenswag was heeltemal uit die veld geslaan. Wat soek \u2018n Suid-Afrikaner hier in die middel van n\u00earens by sy afgele\u00eb buitepos in hierdie woeste deel van 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